Diy Tips: Wood Paneling Techniques

Paneling in wood is a relatively a simple way of producing a distinctive wall treatment that needs minimum care and, as initial construction, saves the total cost of plastering. Factory-finished or semi-finished plywood panels are available in a large sort of veneers and treatments. A well-stocked lumberyard could have 48 styles ranging from cherry to Philippine mahogany, from plain pine to rare hardwoods.

If you prefer applying solid wood, stock is available in regular or random widths, having factory-made tongue and groove, beveled sidings, or shiplap edges. The material you'll need can be judged by measuring the wall area, minus the

space for doors and large windows, and then adding 5 per cent. Lumber must be kiln-dried and left in the area where it should be used for several days to match the moisture content in lumber and room. To give maximum surface exposure for this drying or damping, narrow strips must be laid between the boards, making a sticker pile. Stock that hasn't been moisture-conditioned should be sealed on backs and edges to avoid substantial warping.

Random-length boards are generally sold to equal 8-foot lengths and must be kept together. Panels should be arranged having flashiest grain in center, or in some other logical order.
After the stock is set up, the steps in paneling are quite simple.
1. Basement walls or other areas subject to dampness must be covered using tar paper. All walls covered had better be moisture-proof.
2. Over a finished plaster wall, find the


studs (they are 16 or 24 inches apart), mark them, and secure furring strips (1-by-2-inch or 1-by-3-inch furring, using 8d nails), leaving 1 to 2 inches of space at the top and bottom in order that the panels overlap.
3. Remove all hardware that are sticking out and electrical receptacles and cut spaces (a bit smaller) in panels to grant proper exposure.
4. Beginning from the left corner, nail boards or panels (using 4d nails), first tacking each board or panel, then completing with nails 6 inches apart. Tongue-and-groove boards are nailed at an angle; rabbeted boards are nailed square in, in as much as the heads are overlaid by the following board. Panels are nailed at grain angles or in serrations.
5. Where the wall area is irregular, shape edges accordingly.
6. Measure, cut, fit, and attach casings and jambs for projections, doors, closets, built-ins, and the like.
7. Round edges and shape arises.
8. Nail strips on the base of the wall to bear the bottom of the baseboard an inch off the floor.
9. Cut and nail the baseboard, working from left to right. Leave 1/4 inch at the bottom over hardwood floors. Mitre the ends at every joining and at corners. For tile floors, a plastic base cove can be utilized.
10. Apply appropriate molding at ceiling, corners, and casings.
11. Countersink all nails and hide them with plastic wood. Remove excess. Finish panels as desired
 



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